Belgian Beer Festival Coming + Vlad the Invader Update

Indeed, I have 10 different Belgian beers to taste in my own 'beer cellar' mostly with thanks to my Belgian mate, Frank, he brought back the 4 not in the box, and he advised me about deals at Lidl for their 'Belgian Week' - 6 for just under £12, not bad at all. And I have never tasted most of them before! So expect a blog, or two, about these soon-ish... 😉

And, with reference to a blog a few blogs ago, I noticed on Dave's facebook wall an acknowledgement that Steel City Brewing with its mighty 11.8% Vlad the Invader - Ukrainian Imperial Stout, had donated £800 after its participation in Brew for Ukraine (website).

Nice one, quality!

Visit to Sheffield - Part 2

OK, for me it's an institution now that, whenever I visit Sheffield, I visit Mama's and Leonies at least once (website), which is situated at 111/115 Norfolk Street, Sheffield S1 2JE (0114 272 0490), just down the road from the famous, for snooker fans particularly, Crucible Theatre, and around the corner from the Winter Gardens. I've been eating at Mama's since the last millennium, so I can see no reason why I should change that 'institution' now. Anyway, again, many familiar friendly faces working there and pleasant discourse shared, it's great to be remembered, and my favourite Warm Chick & Bacon Salad, without the croutons, and a large glass of red wine of course (it's been over 30 months since my last meal here!), always excellent, plenty of healthy stuff in there, and never fails to please me, sated, many thanks!

Quality Salad & Wine

Anyway, that was a late breakfast (I had a coffee first, and after) cum lunch, then I re-visited the Fat Cat and Kelham Island Brewery, as I said in my last blog, before returning to The Crow Inn (for address and other details see my last blog as well) for a wee bit of respite from my research, it's a difficult task, but someone has to do it! 😉 Before I left, well I had to have another pint, it would have been rude not to, so I had a pint of Bristolian brewers, Arbor Ales (website) Zero-Zero, a 4.3% "New England IPA." Brewed with the wonderful Citra and Mosaic hops, I couldn't resist! Another 'vegan friendly' beer, so, sadly for me, hazy, but a big aroma and taste of fruit, not bad at all, I'd love to try a nice clear pint of this, oh well, unlikely to happen...

I then walked up to the University of Sheffield and the Student Union's Bar One (website and, incidentally, where I worked a few shifts when I was a postgrad student, 'twas manic, hence just a few shifts 😉), Glossop Road S10 2GE, to meet up with Brigitte, Tom and Noel, for early drinks before going to Bramall Lane for the football match I was also in Sheffield to watch; see I wasn't just here for the food and drinks! Before I carry on, notes taken were fewer, and I must apologise for the blurred images that do appear, but I do have an injury to my right hand... The 3 of them were already there, Tom and Brigitte with grub soon to arrive, I just had a couple of beers.

First I tried the Sheffield based Abbeydale Brewery (website) Reverie (4.2%), dry hopped with Citra and Cascade. Surprisingly, considering I love these 2 hops, I wasn't impressed by it, but I have suspicions that it may have been near the end of the barrel as my notes only say "OK" 👌 I also I had a pint of Thornbridge AM:PM (4.5%), brewed with the addition of Ella, Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Amarillo, a mixture of US and New Zealand hops. Billed as a 'Session IPA' and amber in colour, tropical and citrus fruit to the taste, it wasn't bad! Oh yes, and Tom reminded me that they are having the Sheffield University Student Union Beer Festival (facebook page) over the Mayday weekend, looks interesting...

We four then walked across to The Bath Hotel (website), 66-68 Victoria Street S3 7QL, currently run by Thornbridge Brewery (website), who are giving up the lease on Saturday 23rd April, I have been informed... This was one of my favourite regular haunts when I lived in Sheffield and the pub was being run by the ever friendly Brian (who, I believe still owns the pub, but leases it to Thornbridge), 'twas a quality establishment! Back to this visit and I had a pint of their Astryd (3.8%), a bit hazy for vegans, and perhaps a little too subtle with the hops, presumably from the USA and predominantly Mosaic, I do believe.

But then, to the match, and afterwards to...

... The Rutland Arms (website), 86 Brown Street S1 2BS, built in the 1930s and with a very interesting exterior and interior, hints of art deco, and an attractive faience frontage. Again, sorry, but the image of the bar above is a wee bit fuzzy, but you can see they have plenty of real ales and crafty keg beers from 20 taps; the bar steward appears to be a bit suspicious of my photography, probably why it's fuzzy! 😉 I remember having an ale, a few of them were fuzzy too, definitely wasn't Blue Bee, sadly, and a crafty keg beer from The Kernel (website), which was dark and fizzy, but not bad at all! It's always worth visiting this pub when in Sheffield.

Of course I went back to my 'lodgings' but went up to bed as heading back home the next morning, reasonably early. Whatever, it was great to be back in Sheffield, I trust you enjoyed what I shared too, hopefully there will be many more visits in the years to come, cheers!

Visit to Sheffield - Part 1

I arrived at Sheffield Station in the early afternoon, having begun a visit here last week and, of course, if you know Sheffield you will know there is an excellent pub on platform 1, ie the Sheffield Tap (website). The entrance above is outside the station and is at 1b Sheaf Street, S1 2BP, and opposite Sheffield Hallam University and Sheffield Interchange. The bar is situated in the Grade II listed Refreshment Room, which had been turned into a waiting room in the 1970s, and closed because of vandalism in 1976. In 2008 refurbishment began (see their story), I believe they had assistance from Thornbridge Brewery concerning ales to sell, indeed, had 4 Thornbridge ales on sale when they first opened; now they just have their excellent pale and hoppy 5.9% Jaipur (website) on one of the 11 handpumps.

The development of the site has seen the Tap's own microbrewery next door, located in what used to be the First Class Dining Room, Tapped Brew Co (their website doesn't appear to be working, but facebook page), which has a 4 Barrel brewing plant. A selection of their ales and many guest beers are served from the 11 handpumps, and I had a pint from the ever dependable Roosters Brewing Co (website), their 4.1% Yorkshire Pale Ale. An excellent pale golden bitter, very easy to drink, and all their beers are 'vegan' friendly, and CLEAR, thank you very much!

I then walked to my abode for 2 nights, The Crow Inn, 33 Scotland Street S3 7BS (website), not so far away, but very close to the area where I'd be meeting mates this afternoon/evening, and drinking with them! The Crow Inn reopened 3 years ago after quite a few years closure, and has 7 recently refurbished en suite bedrooms. It also sells a quite a few interesting ales... Indeed, I met up with the first of the 3 lads there, Will, and, after settling into my room, ie offloading my bag, I returned to the bar for a pint.

I had a pint from Abbeydale Brewery (website), and I do know the original head brewer of this brewery, good lad, and, interestingly, a beer originally brewed to be dispensed as a keg beer 6 years ago! But this day it was a cask conditioned ale I drank, of course, ie Heathen American Pale Ale (4.1%), blessed by Mosaic hops, I do believe. My notes, and they get progressively worse over the shift, be aware, say "pretty good, does what it says on the label."

Will and I then wandered across to Kelham Island and met up with Jeff and Lindsay at The Fat Cat (website), 23 Alma Street S3 8SA, and people familiar with this blog, or who know me personally, will know that when I was a post-grad student I worked at the associated brewery (just beyond and to the right in the photograph above), Kelham Island Brewery (website), with the same postal address. The pub was an original in Sheffield, virtually throughout the country for that matter, when it was bought as the Alma in 1981 by Dave and Bruce to provide an alternative to the big brewers, and providing an outlet for independent brewers. After separating their business interests, Dave continued with the pub and set up the microbrewery, in a shed behind the pub at that time (now bigger, and seen above), in 1990. Great to see Di and the chef are still working at the Cat too, I had nice chats with both of them.

Anyway, I drank their Kelham Best (3.8%) the next day, but won't mention it in my next blog (when I drank it, next day), but a very decent traditional bitter and at only £3 a pint, so I had to mention it here... Fuggles, Goldings and Admiral hops used now (not when I worked there, but it appears all the beers' recipes have changed since my day). The first day, from the many ales on offer, I drank their Easy Rider (4.3%), which I remember as a weaker version of their Pale Rider (5.2%), but, having chatted to the head brewer the next day, I realised recipes had changed significantly, the hopes used aren't advertised, but as you'd expect, hops from the USA are used. I didn't make any notes about the Easy Rider (£3.40 a pint) but it does what it says, a very decent APA style beer. Oh yes, and I mentioned the Pale Rider in a recent blog, but the brewer didn't have older information about the possible use of Cascade hops, so no idea still!

You used to be able to be able to see the back of the Kelham Island Tavern, or KIT, as you left the Cat, many of us still use the term KitCat when going to drink at both 😉 Anyway, just around the corner is the KIT, 62 Russell Street S3 8RW (website). Built in the 1830s, it was a derelict building when Trevor and Lewis took it over, refurbished it, reopening in 2002, and it became the best real ale pub in the country, indeed, they won the National CAMRA Pub of the Year in 2008 and 2009, and have won many other awards before and since! Although now retired, I believe Trevor still owns the property, but now managed by others, and still winning awards.

I was quite surprised not to know any of the regulars present when we walked in, but it's been a few years now since I was in Sheffield and, no doubt, at other times I would know more customers.  Anyway, the 4 of us found a nice table adjacent to their galley kitchen, and I chose, after Will recommended it to me, the local Blue Bee Brewery (website) American 5 Hop Version 53 (4.3%), the 53rd version having Citra, Mosaic, Columbus, Comet and Cascade hops from the USA used! What would you expect me to say? 😁 Very hoppy, big citrus aroma and taste, pale golden, with a dry bitter finish, just as I like my session bitters, very good indeed! 

From there, we wandered around another corner to Shakespeare's (website), 146-148 Gibraltar Street S3 8UB, which, as you can see from the photograph above, used to be a Ward's pub many years ago, and they've retained the signs. This Georgian pub was closed for 18 months from early 2010 (previously, Jeff, Lindsay and I had helped them finish off their array of rums!), refurbished, and reopened in July 2011, and since winning CAMRA awards too. I have to admit to not making any notes here, sorry, but they do sell up to 9 real ales, many from local brewers, over 50 bottled beers and over 100 whiskies! It is also a well known music venue in Sheffield.

OK, I was starting to feel a wee bit challenged, maybe 😁 and, whilst Jeff and Lindsay set off for home, Will and I walked the short distance to Shalesmoor, and just after that tram stop is The Wellington (facebook), 1 Henry Street S3 7EQ. Originally built in the 1830s, it gradually became run down through the 20th century, and was refurbished and reopened as a free house in 1993 and renamed the Cask & Cutler (as I first remember it, although also called the "Bottom Welly" - the "Top Welly" was at the other end of Infirmary Road). Anyway, it changed hands again in 2006 and was re-renamed The Wellington, or Cask & Welly to us locals, as I then was.

Since 2016, the pub became one of 3 owned by the friendly Canadian, James B (and an ex-brewer at the Kelham Island Brewery from quite a few years ago too!), who has his own brewery now, Neepsend Brew Co (website), and the 3 pubs including The Wellington, which is termed their Brewery Tap. Again, apologies for not taking notes, but I have written about their ales before, eg in this blog from 4 years ago; however, the "Top Welly" or Hillsborough Hotel is no longer a pub, sadly, hence why I wasn't staying there overnight for this visit. I promise, the next time I visit Sheffield, I shall be much more vigorous with my note taking...

Anyway, Will and I went on to the Dog & Partridge (website) nearer to the city centre, no notes again, but it wasn't in the small area that I wanted to write about, so wasn't close by the other pubs mentioned in this blog, thus not the wee S3 'pub crawl' I am suggesting. But I did return to The Bar Stewards micropub (facebook), opposite Shakespeare's at 163 Gibraltar Street S3 8UA, and which I wrote about with a similar 'pub crawl' on my last visit to Sheffield in 2019 (blog). I did drink a pint of Stout priced at £3.40, but that is all I can decipher from my notes! Oh yes, and the photograph was taken when we passed it on the way to The Wellington, hence why this image isn't in darkness...

I then walked up behind the micropub and back to the Crow Inn, where I took a half pint of a stout up to bed with me, which I did finish...

More about my 2nd day in Sheffield in my next blog, cheers!

Ukraine Visit: Guest Blog, cheers Dave!

I recently visited Sheffield, more to come about that in my next 2 blogs, but saw the following article in the this month’s issue of that City’s CAMRA branch ‘Beer Matters’ (website) and asked Dave if I could share it here, to which he accepted, cheers Dave! Anyway, it is a record of his visit to Ukraine earlier this year, and for your information, Dave is part of Steel City Brewing (facebook), who brew excellent beers, and they’re not afraid to use hops and other ingredients either, indeed, my first ever Black IPA tasted was one of theirs many years ago when I was still living in Sheffield, crackin’ it was too!  

Vlad the Invader

But, at this important time for Ukraine, Steel City Brewing are supporting Brew for Ukraine (website), for which campaign they have brewed a mighty Ukrainian Imperial Stout at 11.8%, Vlad the Invader, and all brewery profit will go to the Brew for Ukraine Crisis Relief Project. Over to Dave:

“I last wrote about Ukraine for this esteemed publication in 2013 – I booked a follow-up trip for 2014, and two days later Russia invaded/ liberated (delete as applicable) Crimea, and by the time we were due to fly from Donetsk airport it had been reduced to rubble. The Curse of Unpro strikes again! I then planned a trip in 2020, didn’t end up going, can’t remember why… then last month I was idly browsing Skyscanner for inspiration when I saw Manchester to Lviv, out that Friday morning, back Monday night, fiver each way – I couldn’t say no!

I’ve never been a fan of morning flights, I’d have far rather flown Thursday night, but beggars can’t be choosers and all that… the 0245 alarm to get up for the 0325 train to the airport did nothing to change my opinion though! Flight was pretty empty and so I took advantage of a row of three seats to get my head down for a couple of hours. Landed on time at Lviv airport, showed my passport and vaccination certificate and I was in, no longer have to fill in any forms unlike previous visits. Got some cash out as wasn’t sure how widespread card use would be (practically non-existent apart from bigger hotels and restaurants in 2013) and bought a SIM card (200 hryvnia/£6 for 20GB valid for a month, bargain) from what looked like a market stall selling knockoff DVDs, then went outside and summoned an Uber to town for the princely sum of £3.

I’d done some preliminary research on RateBeer and Untappd, and for Friday focussed on Untappd ‘verified venues’ (i.e. ones with real time taplists so knew what beers were available). First up was the Drunken Duck, nestled in the old town, a smallish place but with about 16 taps and a fridge of interesting cans and bottles, the food looked good but I didn’t have time to partake. As well as the 0.3 L and 0.5 L measures seemingly standard in Ukraine, they also offer 150 mL (just under a third of a pint) so I set about trying as many as possible in the time, as well as grabbing a couple of ‘train beers’ for my journey to Ivano-Frankivsk. I tried a couple of sours, but they missed the mark a bit with some odd aftertastes, several stouts and porters, and a somewhat bizarre Borsch (yes, as in the beetroot soup!) gose from Red Cat.

From here it was a short walk to Choven, a few steps down from the street in an old building, and with 18 taps of local craft. I didn’t have long here so I focussed on having a beer from each brewery I hadn’t encountered at the Duck. This led to a variety of IPAs, an imperial stout from Gentlemalt, and the best beer so far Ten Men Not For Breakfast, a raspberry sour absolutely packed with fruit.

Third and final bar for the day was Lviv Craft Beer University of St Christopher, another downstairs bar, where among others I had Double Travmato from Didko, Hot Salsa V3 from Hoppy Hog and Blackberry Rolls stout from Kyivska Manufaktura. The former was one of several beers I found made with tomatoes, seems to be a big thing over there, but what can I say when I just brewed a Branston Pickle beer…

I then took the train to Ivano-Frankivsk, again far easier than previous trips – in 2013 you could book online but had to take the booking to a ticket office to get the actual ticket issued, and in 2008 there was no online booking at all, you had to go to the ticket office to try to communicate what you wanted, and if you resorted to writing it down it had to be in Cyrillic… now you simply book online and show your ticket on your ‘phone to the provodnik/provodnitsa (each carriage has its own attendant) along with your vaccination certificate and you’re good to go. Another advantage of the online booking is you can choose your place, so I’d made sure to pick a compartment with nobody else in. Drank my train beers, an excellent Black Bean tonka imperial stout from Varvar, and Apricot Sorbet Sour from Underwood.

Arrival at Ivano-Frankivsk was around half an hour late, unusual for Ukraine, and by the time I’d walked to Hotel Nadiya and checked in it was past 11pm and as I’d been up since 3am I called it a night rather than seeking any of the bars, even though they were close to the hotel.

Saturday I partook in the excellent buffet breakfast at the hotel (it cost 50p more to book with breakfast than without so I had to get my money’s worth…) before heading out to explore the surrounding area – train to Vorokhta, another to Kolomiya, then a third back to IF to complete a triangular trip. Not much beer-wise at Vorokhta but was a scenic journey. At Kolomiya there’s nothing on RateBeer or Untappd, but I stumbled upon Beer Zhe (Beer Men) opposite the station, a ‘draught bottling’ bar similar to the one I discovered in Luhansk in 2013, where beers are dispensed from kegs into PET bottles between 500 mL and 5 L, so I got a couple of small bottles for the next leg of the journey, nowt special, just a couple of pale beers from a local brewery.

Back in Ivano-Frankivsk, I had intended to go to the Tsypa Taphouse, the highest rated bar on RateBeer, sadly at some point in the last two years it seems to have closed down. However I found a few other bars to keep me occupied for the evening and Sunday. First up was Pivni Klub Desyitka, an underground bar with a glass street level entrance not much bigger than a ‘phone box, indeed I walked straight past it before I knew what I was looking for, once inside it’s got a kind of German brauhaus feel. Only three craft beers so didn’t stay long, these were Hoppy Lager and Milk Stout from Varvar and Kohane lager from the bar’s eponymous local brewery but not actually onsite.

I then went in search of brewpub Pinta Pab, I found a pub in the right place but called Fyst Pab, guessing recently taken over as Untappd still showed the former identity. Similarly the house beers appeared as Moi brewery but on the beer menu were shown as Fyst Pab. Of their own I tried IPA One, a fairly 2005-era East Coast IPA being dark amber with sweetness and bitterness, and Stout, then from the guests had Apache red ale from Stanislavska Galba and Medova Rosa amber lager by Good Brewery.

Gost Bar is a fairly modern looking bar and has a couple of craft beers on draught, I had Gonir IPA before moving to the fridge or bottles of MOVA Stout V and CNR IPA. I got chatting to a local at the bar who spoke very good English, and she told me a couple of other places to try that weren’t on my radar. The first of these was Prom Bar, in a multi-outlet factory conversion, from outside it looks almost derelict with almost every window on the lower floors smashed, but the top floor has been renovated in a similar vein to Cutlery Works. At the far end is the bar, I only had time for a quick sour from 2085 brewery before they closed at 2100.

I ran out of time to visit Copperhead brewpub but had tried a couple of their beers in Lviv at least so my final stop was another brewpub, Bartik. The brewery is visible behind the bar, and a number of beers were available. Luckily they did a ‘desyitka’ (tasting board) of 6 x 150 mL, unluckily it included the Ginger Ale! The beers were fairly German in style, apart from the last one I tried, Kriekbier, it lacked the sourness I could tell it was aiming for but was at least not alcoholic cherryade as so many non-lambic ‘krieks’ seem to be.

Sunday night I took a train back to Lviv, alas rather busy so I couldn’t get a compartment to myself, but still managed some sleep. After three days of cold but crisp dry weather, Monday was decidedly damp and later turned to snow. I spent the morning being touristy before heading to Re:Bro for lunch. This is a fairly modern setup, with a kitchen offering a wide range of traditional Ukrainian dishes as well as burgers, pizzas etc, and a bar with a dozen taps. Unusually, 0.5 L is the only measure offered, but as prices were around 70-80 hryvnia (less than £3) it was no big deal, just meant I didn’t get to try as many beers as I would otherwise, just had the two sours: Didko Never Again, a citrus sour, and the slightly crazy Odd Brew (aptly named!) Smth Odd: Sea Buckthorn Tonka Lactose El Dorado Sour, which was very fruity, slightly sour with a sweet edge from the lactose and tonka.

Next I walked to Lemberk, only to be defeated as the opening hours on google turned out to be incorrect, and it wasn’t open. Luckily, next door was Krani, another ‘draught bottle’ shop plus also had cans and bottles in fridge. I bought three draught and a couple of cans, drinking the draught ones as I walked to the next bar as I’m classy like that…

One of the few Ukrainian breweries known outside the country is Varvar, not seen them on sale in the UK but used to be able to order from Dutch website Beerdome until they stopped shipping to the UK for some reason… They have a taproom in Lviv (as well as at least Kyiv and Odesa), Mad, which is arranged over five floors, the concept being each floor up is higher in alcohol, so the beer bar is on the ground floor, then the wine bar, finishing with a spirit bar on the top floor. On this occasion I stayed on the ground floor, trying a couple of Varvar’s IPAs and taking away a bottle of a barrel aged wild ale which I ended up drinking at the airport.

100 yards from Varvar and opposite the impressive Town Hall in Rynok Square is Pravda Beer Theatre, formerly a brewpub but with the beers now brewed elsewhere. Beers are mostly served from tanks, and many are Belgian styles, not really my cup of tea but I had to try a couple, plus a mint wheat beer! Less than half a mile from there are two more bars on the same pedestrianised street, where I was to finish my trip. First up, Bratyska is a fairly industrial looking bar, a dozen taps, I went for Copperhead Triple Berry Sour, Kyiv Local Mango & Passionfruit Sour and MOVA C.C.Citra IPA. Finally a few doors down is Zolotij Kolos (Golden Ear), a beer and pizza place with a superb range of both, but one thing missing – seats! I’d been looking forward to sitting down with a few beers and a pizza but they only have standing tables, bizarre. Still the pizza was good, and I had some good beers including Volta Sangrita Red Orange Gose, Bad Beaver Double IPA, 2085 14 Kveik Vanilla Lemon Tart sour and finishing on another excellent smoothie sour from Ten Men, my favourite brewery of the trip, Berry Smoothie: MBR Blueberry Raspberry Marshmallow Gose.

All that remained was a Bolt to the airport, drink my remaining bottles and cans, and fly home…

An excellent trip overall, I’ve always enjoyed Ukraine and now it’s easier than ever to get to, and easier when you’re there (Bolt and Uber so much easier than communicating directly with drivers who speak no English, cards taken most places, SIM cards easy to acquire so can use Google Maps etc), and still cheap as chips with craft beer mostly under £3 for half litre (and unlike the neighbour to the west, smaller measures are correctly priced pro-rata), good hotels around £20 a night, a 12 hour overnight train in a sleeper around £20, Uber/Bolt £1-2 a ride, local trams and buses 25p a ride, etc.”

Budmo! Dave Szwejkowski aka Dave Unpronounceable.

Cheers again Dave!