We started off in the first bar I ever drank in on my first visit to Belgium many years ago, the 120 years old La Terrasse, Avenue des Celtes 1, Etterbeek, 1040 Brussels (website). Here we both drank Duvel, from the Brouwerij Duvel Moortgat, or Duvel Moorgat Brewery, a Flemish family brewery founded in 1871 by Jan-Leonard Moortgat, and now run by the 4th generation of Moortgats (website). A combination of yeasts from a Scottish ale (McEwan's Scotch Ale, very popular in Belgium at the end of WW1) was extracted and used by Moortgat's sons to help create a lighter ale, which, legend has it, was called a 'real devil' or Duvel, meaning Devil. Duvel (8.5%) is a multi award winning pale golden ale (my description), or Strong Blond ale (their description), with lots of body and flavour, and a subtle bitterness, it is very good indeed. 👍
On our way into the city centre, a couple of days later, we had a brief look around and drank a coffee at the Comic Art Museum, Rue des Sables 20, 1000 Brussels. a glorious Art Nouveau building designed by Victor Horta in 1905, originally a department store, becoming the museum in 1989 (website). We then passed La Monnaie (above - website), the national opera house, where my niece sings. Also, this is where the Belgian Revolution first erupted in 1830. In 1815 Belgium had become the Southern Netherlands following the Congress of Vienna (Britannica). The Belgian bourgeoisie began to tire of King William I of the Netherlands, and now he had forbidden the presentation of Daniel Auber's opera La Muette de Portici at La Monnaie.
The opera portrayed what the King considered to be a potentially inflammatory story of nationhood, courage and freedom, and he must have foreseen what would happen. The opera had been banned since the 3rd of August, but was performed anyway on the 25th of August 1830, and the words did incite the audience to riot, many rushed to leave the theatre and take to the streets, where they were soon joined by members of the working class; there were other contributory factors, of course, including unemployment and a harvest failure. By the 4th of October 1830 independence from the Netherlands was declared, and a week later the Dutch forces retreated from Belgium. ✊
We carried on to our luncheon destination, Le Cirio, Beursstraat 18, 1000 Brussels (website), next to the old Belgian Stock Exhange, La Bourse (Brussels), a long-time favourite for Dan and I. Le Cirio was originally an Italian Delicatessen founded by Francesco Cirio in 1886, and the present interior was redesigned by Henri Coosemans in 1909 in the style of an Art Nouveau Italian cafe. As you can see from the image below, great lighting and decoration within. Oh yes, and we ate here too, Croque Monsieur this time, always very good grub indeed! 😋
Next is one of the most interesting bars you may ever enter, La Fleur en Papier Dore, Rue des Alexiens 55, 1000 Brussels (website), 'the flower made from gold foil.' This really is an 'arts' bar, created by the poet and gallery owner Gerard van Bruaene, and visited over the years by artists and musicians, such as the Surrealists, like Rene Magritte, and singer and actor Jacques Brel, who did like his bars! Bits and pieces here and there, much unmatched furniture, and pictures and all sorts adorning the walls, and pleasantly laid back, I love this bar, and why I return. 😍
Not an enormous choice of beers here, but their local tripel, which I drank of course, from the Brussels brewery Brasserie de la Senne (website), is their 8.0% Tripel Verschueren (Tripel Verschu). As you can see from the photograph, the beer is pretty natural, very suitable for vegans, golden, slightly citrussy and fruity, with a dry bitter finish. Sorry, but the hops used are pretty difficult to find out, but I'd be surprised if the blend used doesn't include Styrian Golding and Saaz hops, I've asked before, but if you know, please let me know, cheers! 👍
Walking back, if you've followed using a map, this blog follows a pretty circular wandering, we visited a new bar for me, Le Perroquet, Rue Watteeu 31, 1000 Brussels (facebook). Another Art Nouveau style interior with stained glass panels, where sitting inside was quite relaxing as the majority of customers were sitting outside, breathing in the fumes. 😉
Here Dan drank, from Hoegaarden (website), their 8.5% Grand Cru, a spicy wheat beer, which has developed since the monks of Hoegaarden started brewing there in the 15th century. Hoegaarden suggest that their early wheat beers were extremely sour, and the monks began experimenting with orange peel and coriander, which certainly comes through in the taste, together with forest fruits, peach and pear, and slightly malty. An interesting mix of wheat beer and Tripel, with spicy undertones, and pretty good too.
I drank Westmalle Tripel (9.5%), probably my favourite Belgian beer. 😁Brewed with Tettnanger (hopslist), Saaz (hopslist) and Styrian Golding (hopslist) hops, a golden ale with a subtle fruity flavour, and a dry bitter refreshing finish, quality! Westmalle Tripel is a 'trappist' ale, the brewery established at the trappist Westmalle Abbey since 1836 (website), and gradually updated over the years. Although the monks no longer brew the beers themselves, they remain in overall charge of the brewery, ensuring tradition is upkept and pure ingredients used, including from their own water supply, 100% barley malt, hops, and yeast from their own culture.
Another bar we've visited many times, near to where Dan used to live, and not far from where their current, temporary now sadly, abode is, Brasserie Le Petit Paris, Rue Charles Degroux 2, 1040 Etterbeek (website). Nestled over a small roundabout, with great memories of food and drinking here, including one late evening many years ago when it was raining, we were sitting outside under the extended cover, listening to the pitter patter of the rain, no-one else outside, watching the late evening world go by, sigh... This time Dan drank Westmalle Tripel (9.5%), description above, and he also provided bottles of Westmalle Tripel at the flat, cheers Dan! 😁
I drank, from the Trappistes Rochefort series (website), Rochefort 8 (9.2%) aka "The Speciale." Brewing had started at the 13th century Abbey of Notre-Dame St-Remy by 1595, the monks worked on farming and mining beforehand. During the revolutionary period from 1789, the monks fled from French troops, and they returned 100 years later. Because of looting and the destruction of their church, they built a new church and brewery and, as farming failed to meet the monastery's full financial needs, they supplemented their income by selling their beers. Moving on to the 20th century and Rochefort 8, first brewed in 1955, originally for the Christmas season. The aroma is dark fruits with a hint of cloves like a fruit cake, the colour is a dark tawny, and the flavours appropriately include a BIG fruity taste, with dark and dried fruits, and a very subtle toasted bread and malt, ending with a dry finish, it's pretty darn good! 😋
And the view from the balcony of my sister-in-law's flat in Brussels on my morning of departure, I came here on Eurostar and came back to London/England on Eurostar, then by 2 other trains home. I did drink a beer I wouldn't usually drink in the posh people's lounge before catching the Eurostar back, but that's another story. "Au revoir Bruxelles!" ✋
